How Do Electric Radiators Work?

Estimated reading time: 6–7 minutes

Key Takeaways

• Electric radiators convert electrical energy directly into heat using built-in heating elements: either thermal fluid-filled or dry ceramic elements.
• They produce heat through a combination of convection (warming air) and radiant heat (warming objects and people directly).
• Unlike storage heaters, electric radiators offer room-by-room control with responsive thermostats and programmable features.
• Sizing is critical: aim for 60–100W per m² depending on insulation quality, and always round up to avoid underpowered heating.
• Electricity costs more per kWh than gas, but precise controls and zero maintenance can make electric radiators a practical choice for many UK homes.
• Installation ranges from simple plug-in units to hardwired systems needing an electrician’s input.

 

Electric Radiators: The Basics

Electric radiators are standalone heating units that plug into or connect to your mains electricity supply. Unlike traditional radiators that depend on a central boiler and water circulation, electric radiators generate heat independently using internal heating elements. This makes them ideal for homes without gas supply, extensions, conversions or anywhere you want heating without pipework.

They’re increasingly popular across UK properties as homeowners look for flexible, controllable heating solutions. Whether you’re refurbishing a period property, adding warmth to a garden room or exploring alternatives to gas central heating, understanding how electric radiators work helps you make better decisions.

How Electric Radiators Produce Heat

Electric radiators use a heating element inside the unit to generate warmth. There are two main types of element design.

Oil-filled (thermal fluid) radiators contain a sealed reservoir of thermal oil or fluid. When the element heats the fluid, it circulates by convection within the radiator body, retaining heat even after the element switches off. This thermal mass provides gentle, sustained warmth and reduces on-off cycling, which can improve comfort and efficiency.

Dry element radiators use ceramic stones or aluminium heat exchangers around the element. They heat up faster than oil-filled models and respond quickly to thermostat changes, making them suited to rooms where you want heat on demand.

Both types distribute warmth through a combination of convection and radiant heat. Convection warms the air, which then circulates around the room. Radiant heat transfers directly from the surface, warming people and objects in its path. This blend creates comfortable, even heating without the stuffiness sometimes associated with fan heaters.

Built-in thermostats regulate temperature by switching the element on and off. Digital thermostats offer tighter control compared to older mechanical dials, which means less wasted energy and more consistent comfort.

Electric Radiators vs Other Electric Heating Types

Not all electric heating works the same way. Here’s how electric radiators compare to other common options.

Storage Heaters

Charge overnight on cheaper night rate tariffs, and release heat gradually during the day. They’re bulky, offer limited temperature control and struggle to respond to sudden weather changes. Modern electric radiators give you instant, controllable heat whenever you need it.

Best for: Properties on Economy 7 tariffs willing to trade flexibility for lower unit costs.

Infrared Panels

Produce radiant heat only. They warm objects and people directly, like sunlight, without heating the air much. They’re slim and discreet but need line of sight to be effective, and they don’t provide the background warmth that convection offers.

Best for: Bathrooms, home offices or spaces where you want targeted, instant warmth.

Fan Heaters and Convection Heaters

Cheap to buy and quick to heat small spaces, but noisy, inefficient for prolonged use and often lacking any meaningful temperature control. They’re fine for occasional use but poor as a primary heating solution.

Best for: Emergency heat or very short-term warming in workshops and garages.

Electric radiators sit in the middle ground: responsive, controllable, silent and suited to whole home heating or room-by-room flexibility. They’re more expensive upfront than a fan heater, but far more comfortable and economical over time.

 

Controls, Programming and Smart Features

Modern electric radiators come with digital controls that put you in charge of when, where and how much you heat. Most models include:

• Digital thermostats for precise temperature setting
• Weekly programming to match your routine (warm rooms before you wake, lower temperatures when you’re out)
• Adaptive start features that learn how long your room takes to reach target temperature
• Open window detection that pauses heating if a sudden temperature drop shows up

Higher spec models offer Wi-Fi connectivity, letting you control radiators remotely via smartphone app. You can monitor energy usage, adjust schedules from anywhere, and some systems integrate with smart home platforms.

Room-by-room control is one of the biggest advantages: you’re not heating the whole house when you only need warmth in the lounge or bedroom. If you’re used to thermostatic valves on wet systems, electric radiators offer similar zoning benefits built in. Pairing smart controls with quality valves and accessories ensures your heating setup performs efficiently, whether it’s electric or traditional.

Sizing Your Radiator: Wattage and Room Heat Requirements

Get the size wrong and you’ll either waste money on an oversized unit or freeze with something underpowered. As a practical rule, aim for 60–100 watts per square metre depending on insulation quality:

• Well-insulated modern homes: 60–80W/m²
• Older properties with solid walls or poor glazing: 80–100W/m² (or higher)

For a 4m x 4m bedroom (16m²) in a reasonably insulated home, you’d need around 1,000–1,280W (1–1.3kW). Always round up rather than down. An underpowered radiator runs constantly and struggles to reach temperature, wasting energy and leaving you cold.

Other factors affect sizing:

• Ceiling height (rooms over 2.4m need more output)
• External walls and windows (north-facing or single-glazed rooms lose more heat)
• Room use (bathrooms and hallways often need higher output per m²)

If you’re unsure, consult an electrician or speak to our trade team. We can help calculate exact requirements and recommend appropriate models for your project.

Installation and Wiring: What to Know Before You Buy

Electric radiators come in two installation formats.

Plug-in models are the simplest option. Mount the radiator to the wall (or use freestanding feet), plug into a standard 13A socket, and you’re done. No electrician needed, though you’ll want to ensure the socket is on a suitable circuit and not overloaded with other high draw appliances.

Hardwired units connect directly to your electrical supply via a fused spur. They’re neater (no trailing cables), required in bathrooms (where sockets aren’t permitted) and necessary for higher wattage radiators that exceed 13A draw. Hardwired installation must be carried out by a qualified electrician.

Electrical Considerations

• Check your ring main capacity: adding multiple electric radiators can overload older wiring
• An electrician should assess your consumer unit and circuit breakers before installation
• Properties with limited electrical capacity may need a supply upgrade (especially relevant in period homes or rural areas).

If you’re drawn to the aesthetic of cast iron but want the simplicity of electric, consider our black cast iron radiators for traditional central heating, or explore column options like 2 column, 3 column, 4 column and 6 column designs for wet systems that pair beautifully with modern controls.

Running Costs and Efficiency: How to Keep Bills Down

Electric radiators are 100% efficient at the point of use: every watt of electricity consumed converts directly into heat. But efficiency alone doesn’t determine running costs. Electricity costs more per kWh than gas, so managing when and how you heat matters enormously.

Variables That Impact Costs

• Insulation quality: poor insulation means more heat escapes, requiring longer run times
• Thermostat accuracy: precise digital thermostats avoid overshooting and reduce waste
• Your tariff: standard, Economy 7 or time of use tariffs all affect unit costs
• Usage patterns: heating unused rooms or leaving radiators on 24/7 drives costs up
• Property type: flats lose less heat than detached houses; modern builds outperform older stock

Practical Tips to Lower Bills

• Improve insulation (loft, walls, draught proofing) before upgrading heating
• Use scheduling to heat rooms only when occupied
• Set temperatures realistically (18–21°C is comfortable for most; every degree higher adds to costs)
• Zone your heating: don’t heat bedrooms during the day or living rooms overnight
• Pair with renewable energy if you have solar PV or a green tariff
• Maintain accurate controls: a faulty thermostat cycling on-off wastes energy

Electric heating may cost more to run than an efficient gas boiler in some cases, but the lack of boiler servicing, no annual gas safety checks and precise room control can balance overall household costs. For properties off the gas grid, electric radiators often outperform oil or LPG alternatives in convenience and emissions.

Pros and Cons Summary

Advantages

• 100% efficient at point of use: no heat lost in pipework or flues
• Room by room control: heat only the spaces you use
• No boiler required: lower installation cost, no annual servicing
• Quick and easy installation (especially plug-in models)
• Silent operation: no pump noise or kettling
• Low maintenance: no parts to service or replace
• Zero combustion emissions at the point of use (carbon footprint depends on grid mix)

Limitations

• Higher running costs per kWh compared to mains gas (though controllability helps offset)
• Potential need for electrical upgrades in older properties
• Upfront cost can be higher than basic panel radiators
• Less suited to poorly insulated homes without improvements

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Are electric radiators cheaper to run than gas?

Not usually per kWh, but precise controls and no boiler losses can help manage costs. Best suited to well-insulated homes or properties off the gas grid.

Can I install electric radiators myself?

Plug-in models, yes, if you’re competent with DIY. Hardwired units require a qualified electrician, and bathroom installations must meet wiring regulations.

How long do electric radiators last?

Quality models can last 15–20 years or more with minimal maintenance. There are no moving parts to wear out.

Do electric radiators need servicing?

No. Occasional dusting and checking the thermostat works properly is all that’s needed.

Are electric radiators suitable for older homes?

Yes, but you may need to upgrade wiring or improve insulation first. They’re ideal for listed buildings where installing pipework is impractical.

What’s the difference between oil-filled and dry element radiators?

Oil-filled models retain heat longer and provide sustained warmth; dry elements heat up faster and respond more quickly to thermostat changes.

Electric radiators offer a flexible, controllable heating solution that’s especially valuable in homes without gas, extensions or anywhere you want heating without the complexity of a wet system. They’re not a universal replacement for gas central heating, but in the right circumstances (good insulation, smart controls and realistic expectations about running costs) they deliver comfortable, reliable warmth with zero maintenance hassle.

Whether you’re heating a single room or planning a whole home electric system, getting the sizing, controls and installation right makes all the difference. Explore Paladin’s electric radiator range or for expert advice and a free sizing quote tailored to your project, contact our trade team.